U_joints

[fudog]

How do you remove the factory u-joints for replacement? It looks like the factory put them in with plastic and if so will the replacements have a snap ring and grease fitting? This is a 2000 GMC Sonoma. Your replies are greatly appreciated. THANKS!

[m1k3sthemannn]

Not sure about new vehicles, but the older ones did have injected plastic holding them in place. I've had great luck with a propane torch held opposite the hold where it is injected, and simply hold in place until plastic stops shooting out. Pretty cool actually. Internal c-clips are the norm for replacement u-joints from what I've seen on GM vehicles.

One thing I'd like to point out is that the factory u-joints are typically exceptionally good pieces, and take a LONG time to wear out if they aren't abused (lift, water, etc) so replacement with reasonable mileage or age isn't normally a necessity in my opinion, unless you know they are bad. I see a lot of people replace u-joints hoping to ccure a problem not caused by them. (bad tire balance, tires, axle bearing, etc)

[Saltmine]

Try to stay away from the yokes and joints with a torch. Too much heat can damage them, causing a change in the metal's properties.

The correct way to replace these joints is with a "C" clamp type U joint press.
They're not that expensive, but they do take a little skill and muscle to break the thermoplastic locking rings in the joints. New joints come with the correct retaining rings to re-assemble them.

Yes, late model U-joints do last an incredibly long time, but, they eventually wear out. Care should also be taken when taking apart the driveshaft to insure that everything gets put back exactly the way it was before dis-assembly. Severe vibration problems are only one of the problems caused by improperly timed U-joints and couplings.

I've seen a lot of people create more problems than they solve by not knowing how to perform a repair properly....

[m1k3sthemannn]

I know you've got a lot of experience talking Saltmine, have you ever seen the yokes crushed from a press though? I know they make a tool that fits inside the ears to prevent this from happening, but not having that tool is why I use the propane method.

It doesn't take much heat at all to get the plastic out, not even close to red hot, and makes it 100 times easier to press or even pound the joint out with a socket/hammer.(trail fix)

That little bit of heat isn't going to affect the yoke properties is it? To clarify, you would only do this when you know you are replacing the joint, not just to look at it.

[Saltmine]

The only time I've seen bent or crushed yokes is when the guy doing the job didn't know how to use the tool (press) or chased the driveshaft around on the floor with a BFH...Beating on these joints is a real quick way to bend up a yoke.

No, a little bit of heat isn't going to affect the metal's properties, but most guys operate under the heading of;"if a little heat is good, a lot is even better."

I don't recommend any heat, because most people won't know when to draw the line.

I only take a joint apart when it's going to be replaced....It's a waste of time to dis-assemble something, then have to do it again two or three months down the road...usually in the middle of the night, along the side of the road.

[justen]

Hey now, No crushing stuff with a press lol. Yeah over heating is not good. If it was something like a heat gun then I'd feel safer about it. But some guys will heat that sucker up red cherry hot.