it cranks but it won't start

[briannguy68]

i have a 65 chevy c10 with a 283. it cranks but won't start. I have replaced the cap, rotor, points, condenser, and coil. I am still not getting spark. The only thing that I have not replaced is the coil resistor.

Is this little ***** thing what is keeping the truck from starting?

Maybe, Check for power at the plus side of the coil and check to make sure the minus side is grounding out when you crank the engine. Also, check you resistor for power. You should have less then 12 volts on one side (coil side) and 12 plus Volts on the other side.

It's a place to start.

Also, make sure you have a good ground to your engine. Allot of guys go thru allot of trouble with this. Just run a Temp ground wire (at least 10 Gauge) and see if anything changes.

[towtrucks]

Do you know how to set the contact points?

[TNcarguy]

This may seem obvious, but check to be sure the rotor's turning. I broke a timing chain once and wasn't getting spark because the cam and dist. weren't turning.

[justen]

funny you should mention that, this 56 chevy truck I got for cheap (restoring it) wouldn't start, The old timer I baught the thing from said it would start for like 2 years I ended up checking the coil and points all that fun stuff seemed to be ok, Then I pulled off the coil wire that goes to the distributor cap, sure enough dead. Went out and baught some decent spark plug wire set and she started with a little smoke but cleared up after running for awhile. So just for giggles check the coil wire to the distributor cap.

[LM racer]

wow we had the same problem on our race car.

I would try to check and make sure the plug wires are on right.

if there is an ignition box, make sure the fuses are in all the way. that was our problem the fuse on the MSD box was in but not all the way in.

[Wanderer]

Are you sure it is no spark? As some said, check that you have 12 volts at the + side of the coil. The - side should be connected to the distributor. You could have 12 volts on the - side also if the points are open. If the points are closed it will read 12V on the + side of the coil and 0V on the - side. The points are just a switch turning current on and off through the coil. The spark doesn't occur untill the points open. If that is ok then take the dist. cap off. Turn the engine over till the points are closed. (the points were set properly weren't they?). (make sure the points are opening on the high part of the lobe) Pull the coil wire out ( the secondary wire) of the distributor and hold it a 1/4" from a good ground. With the ignition on, open the points with a insulated screw driver. As soon as you open the points you should get a good spark. If you do, then the problem is from the cap on or as someone else said, the distributor is not turning. If the ballist resistor was bad it would start but stall as soon as the key was released from the start to the run position. In the start mode the ballist resistor is bypassed to give the coil full voltage on starting. (that's why there are two wires going to the + side) You can tell when they are bad by it starting and then immediatly stalling. I apologize if you already knew all this as I don't mean to question your knowledge. Hope this helps some. If not give some more symptoms. Good luck.