Broke Down Bronco

[65KCODE]

Hi,

My 1986 Bronco quit running a couple of weeks ago and had to be towed home. It didn't have any fuel pressure, so since I already needed to drop the fuel tank to replace the rubber hose from the filler neck to the tank, I replaced the 'in tank' pump at the same time. This did not fix the problem, so I replaced the external pump for good measure (old pump had 250,000 miles on it), I also replaced the inertia switch with a known good one. After unwrapping the wiring harness and replacing any suspect wires (had no broken wires, just some with bad insulation) I got the truck to start. I connected my code scanner and got no codes for the KOEO test and got a 31 EGR code (old code) on the KOER test, so I rewrapped the wiring harness and went for a test drive. Now the truck seems run ok at a low load level, but when you step harder on the gas it doesn't want to take it and starts to sputter. It also seems to get hot fast, almost the timing is way off, but I have checked the base timing(with spout diconnected) and it is 8 degrees. At the suggestion of a friend I also put in a new fuel pressure regulator (Kirban aftermarket unit). The engine is a crate 5.0 efi with less than 8,000 miles and had been running flawlessly until this incident. I just can't figure this one out.

Thanks for any Help.......Tom

[schretter.works]

1.So does it run cool when are easy on the gas?
2. Do you hear any pinging when you floor it?
3. Did you replace the fuel filter?
4. The error code is the device that pushes down on the egr valve. They are pretty cheap to replace instead of the whole egr valve. Should only take 5 minutes to replace. Should be on the front driver side of the motor next to the air intake manifold next to the pipe coming from the air box.

I hope this helps some?

Usually after I answer about 10 people post with other things. If there is not at least one post they usually everybody ignores it. I think it is one of those "NO I AM RIGHT" type of things. I just want people problems to be fixed.

Good luck.

[65KCODE]

Hi,
Thanks for the input....Yes, the filter was replaced and no I do not hear any pinging. I'm grasping at straws with the heat thing, but I timed it one time without disconnecting the spout first and the symptoms seem very similar, it gets hot fast and sputters more the hotter it gets.

Tom

[FieroSpeeder]

ill be like doug

The ignition modules on the fords fail after a certain amount of time. There was a lawsuit not too long ago where people who owned the car with the module can get a replacement free. The ignition module will cause the fuel pump to shut off too.

It is a good idea just to replace this part if your going to keep the truck and the PIP sensor. That is the hall effect sensor inside the distributor. You need to pull the distributor off and remove the dist. gear.

If you do replace the module. You need a special 5? dollar tool to remove the two small bolts. Or grind down a socket to fit in the hole.

[65KCODE]

Hi,

I live close to a Mustang speed shop that carries an Accel version of the TFI module for $49.00, I think I'll give it a try. I do plan on keeping the truck, so replacing a few parts that have over a quarter of a million miles on them doesn't seem too unreasonable.

Thanks for helping.....Tom

[65KCODE]

Repalced the whole distributor with one from Napa, put on a new Echlin TFI and it had no effect on the no power condition. There is a ground wire in the same group of wires that hook to the TFI, it just ends in the harness and I cannot find what it was grounding, does anyone know? Once again thanks for everyones input.

Tom