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Old 08-08-2005, 05:39 PM
weatherman weatherman is offline
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Pressurized Fuel Injector Cleaner

A few episodes ago...Sam(I think it was Sam) demoed a pressurized fuel injector
cleaning system. You know...pressurized container of cleaner connected to the
fuel rail and run the engine until it goes dry.

Anybody remember who makes this product. Local parts stores are clueless.

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Old 08-08-2005, 06:02 PM
Racerock Racerock is offline
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Champion makes one.

I have two cases of the pressurized cleaner at home. Looked for a cheap way to buy/make adapters to get it in, and it is not cheap...
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Old 08-09-2005, 11:41 AM
schretter.works schretter.works is offline
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I went to.

O'Reilly and told them I wanted a in-line Fuel Injector cleaner line.

The cost was $150.00 and I had to buy a fuel injector tester line with it.

Best $150.00 I have ever spent.

The bottles I used were called Pro-Clean $10.00.

Made my 87 F-150 with 350,000 miles run like new.
Wife's van laid a rubber mark down the road for the first time.

I do it once a year.

Turn off fuel pump on vehicle before running can into lines.
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:28 PM
Saltmine Saltmine is offline
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I have a pressurized cleaner kit at work, but can't use it on my own car.

A friend wanted to clean the injectors on his wife's car, recently. I told him I couldn't help him. But it got me thinking. I called up my friend and suggested a few things to try. Lo and behold! they worked!
This works on GM cars:
First, you need an old R-12 refrigerant can piercer, with the fitting on it. An R-12 freon hose (the color doesn't matter). You place the injector cleaner can into the piercer, hook up the hose to the car's fuel rail, disconnect the car's fuel pump, pierce the can, and start the engine. After the can is empty, the engine will stall.

Need a fuel injection cleaner for Fords?
Cut the R-12 hose in half. Take the hose off of an old tire pump. Using a piece of tubing, clamp both pieces of hose together. Disable the car's fuel pump, pierce the can, and start the engine, etc, etc, etc.

That's right! the fuel pressure test port is the same threads on a GM car as an R-12 fitting. The fitting on Fords and Chrysler is the same as a tire valve.
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:59 PM
danny danny is offline
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good info there saltmine. have you actually performed these tasks?
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:34 AM
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If you're still looking for the manufacturer, the two guys did a show with the equipment and cleaner from 3M. They have a website and you can order the kit there.
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:56 PM
Saltmine Saltmine is offline
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As a matter of fact, Danny, I have. My friend tried it first, and I helped him get through some of the technical details, but, yes, it does work well. The only thing you have to be careful about is piercing the cleaner can. We found the best place to do it is close to the base of the can. Use only the larger cans of cleaner, also. The can piercer won't fit around the small ones too well. Unless you have an adapter.

The pressure you're dealing with seldom exceeds 25psi.
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Old 09-22-2005, 07:03 PM
GM_man GM_man is offline
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A friend wanted to clean the injectors on his wife's car, recently. I told him I coul

Saltmine, I bought a can of Pro Clean from NAPA and all the R12 hose did was peirce the can enough so I could not take it back. Any comments to what went wrong? What product are you using? I tried to by a kit from Ebay for $79 but the guy got sick or something and I had to request a refund. Not sure what to do now. I have GM Cars to clean. Any ideals?? I don't want to buy one of those $150 kits.
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:16 PM
Saltmine Saltmine is offline
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It's very possible you got a defective (old stock) can of injector cleaner, GM.
We used the same Pro Clean from NAPA as you did. Of course, you do have to make sure your car's fuel pump is shut off. If it runs, the pump will overpower the propellant in the cleaner can, and you won't get any cleaner into the engine.
The can piercer I used was for R-12 refrigerant. It's the kind that pokes a hole in the side of the can, and there's a thick rubber seal that presses against the can once you pierce it. There are also adapters to fit smaller cans, if you need them. Regarding the R-12 refrigerant hose, you have to use the one that is open on the piercer end, and can open the schrader valve on the fuel rail. If you had it backwards, the schrader valve in the fuel rail won't open. I think this might be what happened in your instance.
Most R-12 hoses only have the pintle for pressing down the schrader valve on one end.
Trust me, it does work like a charm. My friend has a whole bunch of his buddies lined up who want their injectors cleaned, for a nominal fee. When he started getting into the Ford and DCX cars, he asked me what to do, and I went with him to a local "Pep Boys" store. We bought a hand-operated tire pump, cut the end off, and used a short piece of 3/16" brake tubing and some hose clamps to join the two hoses, and now he's doing Ford and DCX injector cleaning.
I hope this helps...
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:43 AM
GM_man GM_man is offline
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"It's the kind that pokes a hole in the side of the can, and there's a thick rubber seal that presses against the can once you pierce it. "

Saltmine, Thanks mine R-12 poked a hole in the top not the side. I'll look for the side poke type.

Thanks
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Old 09-23-2005, 08:13 PM
Saltmine Saltmine is offline
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I'm familiar with the top piercing R-12 tapper. I can guess it made quite a mess. The top of a cleaner can is designed to be pierced by an R-22 can tapper, or something similar. My injector cleaner at work uses this system. I knew we wouldn't be able to locate a similar piercing tapper without buying a fuel injector cleaning kit, so we went with the side piercer, which works on anything. Good luck, and above all, have fun!
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Old 09-27-2005, 08:07 PM
GM_man GM_man is offline
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Saltmine

I purchased the side puntch R12 from Ebay for $20 and removed the shrader valve at the tool. I than hooked up the R12 hose with the top punch run through a adapter so I could use the shut off valve. I gave it a try by punching the side near the top (Did not remember you said the best place is the bottom.) The can let out a little puff and thats it. After fixing the leaks in the fittings I decided to try to pressure the can with the fuel pump by pulling the relay with the car running. I did verify the hose was getting pressure as the new tool came with 2 shrader valves so 1 was still functional. The car ran for about 2 or 3 minutes after fuse pull when the can was on the side were I punched the hole (only 30 seconds with no can) I repeated this several times. I think its working but sure would like to start it off the can with no fuel pump.

Thanks for all the help. I think a couple more times and I should get it.

Last edited by GM_man; 09-27-2005 at 08:09 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-27-2005, 10:49 PM
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thecarguy thecarguy is offline
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You dont even need to rig up a schrader valve fitting. The 3m injector cleaners im familiar with all you do is disconnect the fuel line and hook in the hose onto the fuel line.
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:45 PM
chevman-1 chevman-1 is offline
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R-12 3M Fuel injector Cleaner

I took a R-12 Can Tapper Top style. I took the tapper appart and drilled the bottom where the seal is .25" Deeper with a bullet bit to get the flat bottom to the hole I then cut .25" off the threaded portion of the tapper and filed it smooth. I put the tapper back together and then latched it to the top of the can and tightened the tapper down. I disconected my fuel pump relay on my 2000 Silverado. Connected the other end of the R-12 hose to the fuel test port. I then turned the tapper in all the way and backed it back out this punctured the top of the can through the 7/16 threaded portion and when backed all the way back out it pressureised my fuel rail. I then started the truck and let it run till it died (about 5 minutes) The entire setup cost me $13 dollars for the R-12 tapper from AutoZone. I can now use the addaptor for my fuel pressure tester to do Fords.

Chevman-1
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:50 PM
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At home I've soaked fuel injectors in some paint thinner or turpentine, then hooked up my air compessor to the injector and open it, and allowed the air pressure to blow the crud out. Seems to work ok. Make sure you replace any rubber O-rings.
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